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Backgammon
Rules |
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Playing Backgammon for
Play Money |
Play and practice
Backgammon for fun and
enhance your skill at
the game. Once you've
mastered the basics of
the game, you can move
up and play to win real
money.
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Playing Backgammon for
Real Money |
Playing Backgammon is
exactly the same as in
real life, only you get
to meet exciting people
from all over the world
and play against them
for Real Money.
Before playing
Backgammon for Real
money, you must deposit
money into your account.
There are two ways to
start playing for Real
money after depositing
money; joining an
existing table or
creating a new table. In
both ways, there is a
stake involved in the
game and the winner
takes everything and
pays a small fee.
Click here to view
our commissions on Real
Money games.
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Series (Match Play) and
Single (Money Game)
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When playing a live
match, there are two
types of game modes:
Series Mode (Match Play)
- A series of games
between two players that
ends when one player
wins by accumulating the
agreed and set number of
points. For each game,
the number of points won
is the doubling cube
value multiplied by the
win type (winning by a
gammon is worth 2
points, winning by a
backgammon is worth 3
points).
Single Mode (Money Game)
- The normal style of
competition in which
games are played
independently. For each
game, the loser pays the
winner the agreed
initial stake multiplied
by the value of the
doubling cube and
further multiplied by
the win type (two for a
gammon or three for a
backgammon).
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Timers in the game
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There are two types of
timers when playing
Backgammon:
Move Timer - this timer
displays the time you
have left to make a
move. It is reset after
each move. If this timer
expires, the global
timer will start
ticking.
Global Timer - this
timer starts ticking
only when the move timer
expires. The global
timer is set for the
entire game.
Any player that causes
the global timer to END
will immediately and
automatically suffer a
technical loss of that
game, regardless of the
current game board
state.
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Disconnections and
Resuming Games
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If you get disconnected,
you will have 5 minutes
to reconnect and resume
the game. To do so,
simply log in again and
the disconnected game
will be resumed
automatically for you.If
you do not return within
5 minutes, the game will
be analyzed and the
money will be split
accordingly.
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The
Doubling Cube
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Backgammon is played for
an agreed wager (or
number of points in the
tournament play). During
the course of the game,
a player who feels he
has a sufficient
advantage may propose
doubling his stakes. He
may do so, only at the
start of his turn, and
before he has rolled the
dice. A player who is
offered a double may
refuse, in which case he
concedes the game and
pays the original wager.
Otherwise, he must
accept the double and
play on for the new
higher stakes. A player
who accepts a double
becomes the owner of the
cube and only he may
make the next double.
Subsequent doubles in
the same game are called
redoubles. If a player
refuses a redouble, he
must pay the wager that
was at stake prior to
the redouble. Otherwise,
he becomes the new owner
of the cube and the game
continues at twice the
previous stakes.
Redoubles can increase
the original wager by up
to 64 times.
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Playing with Beavers
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An optional rule in
Single Mode (money
play)whereby when a
player is doubled, he
may immediately redouble
(beaver) while retaining
possession of the
doubling cube. The
original doubler has the
option of accepting or
refusing as with a
normal double.
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Object of the Game
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The object of the game
is for each player to
bring all his checkers
into his home board, and
then to bear them off
the board. The first
player to clear all his
checkers off the board
is the winner.
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Hitting and Entering
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A point occupied by a
single checker of either
color is called a blot.
If an opposing checker
lands on a blot, the
blot is hit and placed
on the bar. Anytime a
player has one or more
checkers on the bar, his
first obligation is to
enter that checker(s)
into the opposing home
board. A checker is
entered by moving it to
an open point
corresponding to one of
the numbers on the
rolled dice. For
example, if a player
rolls 4 and 6, he may
enter a checker onto
either the opponents'
four point or six point,
as long as the
prospective point is not
occupied by two or more
of his opponents'
checkers. If neither of
the points is open, the
player loses his turn.
If a player is able to
enter some but not all
of his checkers, he must
enter as many as he can
and then forfeit the
remainder of his turn.
After the last of a
players' checkers have
been entered, any unused
numbers on the dice must
be played.
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Bearing Off |
Once a player has moved
all of his fifteen
checkers into his home
board, he can begin
bearing off. A player
bears off a checker by
rolling a number that
corresponds to the point
on which the checker
resides, and then
removing that stone from
the board. If there is
no checker on the point
indicated by the roll,
the player must make a
legal move using a
checker on a
higher-numbered point.
If there are no checker
on the higher-numbered
points, the player can
remove a stone from the
next highest point. A
player is under no
obligation to bear off
if he can make an
otherwise legal move. A
player must have all of
his active checkers in
his home board to bear
off. If a checker is hit
during the bear-off
process, the player must
bring that checker back
to his home board before
continuing to bear off.
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Gammons and Backgammons
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At the end of the game,
if the losing player has
borne off at least one
checker, he loses only
the value showing on the
doubling cube (the
original wager or one
point if there have been
no doubles). However, if
the loser has not borne
off any of his checkers,
he is gammoned and loses
twice the value of the
doubling cube. Moreover,
if the loser has not
borne off any of his
checkers and still has a
checker on the bar or in
the winners' home board,
he is backgammoned and
loses three times the
value of the doubling
cube.
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Commissions when playing
for Real Money
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Single Game (Money)
Commission is taken from
the final win sum (the
winner pays for both
players)
Up to $20: 4.9%
Example: Joe and Alex
play a single game with
initial stake of $5.
Alex wins by gammon.
$9.02 will be added to
Alex's balance and Joe's
balance will have $10
deducted (commission is
$0.49).
$20 up to $100: 3.9%
Over $100: 2.9%
Series Game (Match)
Commission is taken from
the stake sum plus 0.25%
for each additional
point in a game over 1
(the winner pays both).
Up to $20:
base commission (for 1
point): 3.9%, every
point: +0.25%, max
commission: 7.9%
Example: Diane and Julia
play a Series (match) up
to 3 points with stake
of $10. Diane wins the
series 3-1.The
commission for 3 points
is a base commission of
3.9%+2*0.25%=4.4% The
commission from each
player is $10*4.4%=
$0.44 (the winner pays
both their
commissions).$9.12 will
be added to Diane's
balance and Julia's
balance will be deducted
$10.
$20 up to $100:
base commission (for 1
point): 3.4%, every
point: +0.25%, max
commission: 6.9%
$100 and over:
base commission (for 1
point): 2.9%, every
point: +0.25%, max
commission: 5.9%
We encourage matches
between 2 players with a
similar rating level,
therefore:
A maximum $5 commission
when both rating of the
players are over 1650.
Decrease of 50% in
commissions if the
rating of both players
are over 1700.
Increase of 10% in
commissions if the
rating of both players
are less than 1600.
Increase of 50% in
commissions when the
rating difference is 100
to 199.
Increase of 100% in
commissions when the
rating difference is 200
or more.
Increase of 150% in
commissions when the
rating difference is 250
or more.
Increase of 200% in
commissions when the
rating difference is 300
or more.
The following rules
apply:
-Increased commission
will not be applied if
both players have a
rating higher than 1650
or less than 1550.
-A rating lower than
1400 is considered as
1400 and displayed as
1400*.
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Restricted Activities
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You may not
play if you are a
resident of the
United States states
of Arizona,
Connecticut,
Florida, Louisiana,
Montana or Vermont
or any other state
or territory you are
not permitted by law
to participate in
this game nor win
any promotion
prizes..
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You may not
open more than one
account per person,
or per computer or
address.
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You may not
use any software or
hardware to assist
play. The Site will
monitor any attempt
to use such
restricted aids, and
shall immediately
terminate your
account upon
discovery of such
use.
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You may not
consult with or help
other players while
they are playing, by
using the chat
feature, or in any
other way.
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You may not
intentionally lose
any games or try to
otherwise manipulate
your rating or
achieve a
competitive
advantage.
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You may not
deliberately
transfer money
between accounts.
-
You may not
harass other
participants, or
post objectionable
material, including
use of any offensive
language.
-
You may not
send any "spam"
emails or messages,
including (without
limitation): (i) any
unsolicited email to
a recipient (ii)
repeatedly posting
messages irrelevant
to the discussion
(iii) solicitation
for any goods or
services.
-
You may not
disconnect on
purpose while in a
game or allow the
global timer to run
out..
THE SITE WILL MONITOR
ANY PERFORMANCE OF ANY
OF THE RESTRICTED
ACTIVITIES LISTED ABOVE
AND IN ANY EVENT IN
WHICH THE COMPANY DEEMS
THAT SUCH RESTRICTED
ACTIVITY WAS PERFORMED,
IT SHALL IMMEDIATELY
TERMINATE YOUR ACCOUNT
WITHOUT NOTICE.
Upon termination of your
account, your membership
in the Site will be
cancelled; you will be
prohibited from any
future membership and
you will not be
permitted to participate
in any Games.
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| Game Strategies |
Strategy for beginners
Strategy for intermediates
Strategy for advanced
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STRATEGY FOR BEGINNERS
As a beginner, you need to focus on the key objective of the game. In a nutshell, the objective is to
bring all the checkers to your inner board and to finally start bearing them off.
Check the position of the checkers
Place five checkers on 6 point, three on the 8-point, five on 13 point and the balance two on the 24
point. Re-ensure whether your opponent has also placed the checkers in the same way. Now you must arm
yourself with accurate backgammon terminology. The 13th point, where five checkers are placed at the
beginning, is called the mid-point. As the 7th point is placed immediately next to the bar, it is the
Bar-point. It may be noted that in the beginning, you never place a checker at the Bar-point. Now lets
come to the last point, the1-point. Essentially you cannot move your checker beyond the 1-point, being
called the Ace-point. (NB-Your ace-point becomes the opponent’s mid-point while the opponent’s ace-point
becomes your mid-point in due course of the game).
Assuming you know the board better, consider how that affects your strategy now. You must reserve your
ace-point at the earliest. Leave the last point, when and only when your bearing off is complete. Try
to keep the bar point occupied hence allowing you enough space for free movement.
Now you must apply a simple logic while placing the checkers. Always try moving checkers in pairs as
this increases your invincibility even if you are bound to move a single checker by the cast of the die.
Remember a single checker is always susceptible to a hit by the opponent, meaning that you need to place
your checker back on the bar again and go through the entire rigmarole again. It is not only tedious but
also highly time consuming, time being the most crucial parameter for a win in Backgammon.
Certain standard myths about throwing the die: (which are however scientifically yet to be proved to be
authentic).
We suggest that you to throw the die from a reasonable height in an empty space so that it can fall and
roll freely. In the skill-laden game of backgammon, the cast of the die factor has labeled it to a game
of Luck.
Generic questions:
How to count points?
It is really very simple. You start counting from the upper-right corner of the outer-board.
How should the moves take place?
You must always be moving ahead in an anti-clockwise direction.
Where can you place the checker?
At any open point.
What to do in the event that your point is pre-occupied by the opponent’s checker?
If there remains only one checker for the opponent, you can place yours there by striking off the
opponent’s checker while it goes back to the bar. However if it is occupied by a set of the opponent’s
checkers, then you cannot hit them.
What are the stipulations?
You cannot move a checker from behind, if your opponent has formed a prime, which is a set of checkers
in six subsequent points.
How to determine, who makes the first move?
This is determined by the throw of a single dice at the beginning. Remember in moving the checkers,
you must throw both the die together.
Informative Backgammon Books:
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Know the Game by Glen Titley – This is a very thin book providing a bird’s eye view of the
rules of backgammon. This book helps the beginners to know how to play the backgammon. This also
gives you the overview of some tips and strategy.
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The Backgammon Book by Jacoby and Crawford – An ideal book for beginners. Remember that Jacoby
rules and Crawford rules are followed even today in money games and match games respectively.
It has delved into the intricacies of the game. There are clear-cut instructions on the rules
with a detailed description of its history and the developing phases. The pros and cons of the
double are most elaborate in the book giving a clear-cut guideline.
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Backgammon by Lamford Paul – The champion Paul Lamford has tried to guide the beginners with
the essentials of the game.
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The Backgammon Handbook by Enno Heyken and Martin B. Fidcher is also a popular book for
beginners
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Note: Your key strategy should be to observe and react. The experts
suggest that in the beginning; rely more on the reactive approach rather than your proactive approach.
STRATEGIES FOR INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
As you are aware of the various strategies at the beginners’ level, the stage is set to focus on
improvising your performance. You can start off by choosing a similar level player among your known
sources. You may also practice with your own computer selecting the intermediate level. Thirdly you may
choose a player of your level by looking at the profiles and track records on any online site. The key
word lies in enhancing your newfound confidence by repeatedly playing for a few weeks.
While moving the checkers, you must select some prior strategies and definitely decide on witnessing
the progress of the game. Your fundamental philosophy at this stage should be not to be Hit or Bumped.
Now lets see, how this can be achieved?
1) Move checkers in pairs
2) If you have to move one checker to an open point, try to reach the second checker as soon as
possible.
3) You may place a checker on a point, which already holds two or more opponents’ checkers.
We advise you try hitting a blot which is pre-occupied by a single checker of the opponent. This gives
you the edge of sending the opponent’s checker on the bar to give you the additional mileage.
According to the glossary Mindzine, 'Points formed in front of an opponent's meant to hinder their
progress around the board' is called a block. If you can form a contiguous blocks of such points, it is
called the blockade. The blockade is made on your home board to actually close the escape route of your
opponent’s checkers.
We also advise you to try to take ‘control’ of a point by placing two checkers to create a ‘block’ of
your own to prevent the opponent’s checkers from landing up over there and stop being hit.
A very common technique is to build some defensive blocks at the opponent’s home. This is called
Anchoring. Remember that Anchoring is always done in your away board, which means the opponent’s home
board. The champions prefer Anchoring in the bar-adjacent points like 20, 21 in the beginning. If you
are lagging behind then 22, 23, 24 points become more valuable. Sometimes, you may have to allow hits
for establishing Anchors. Just for the beginners, Anchors help in blocking the opponent from using his
home board as per his choice. But if the progress of the game really goes against you, try to leave
anchors.
You can start bearing off only when you have been able to move all your checkers into your home board.
Remember you must complete the bearing off before your opponent. Now, whoever completes bears off
first, wins. As a matter of fact, the opponent must have at least one checker in the board. The winner
wins by the number of opponent’s checkers left on the board in the normal situation, where each checker
carries one point. In special case like double, then the point becomes doubled for the winner, where
each checker will carry two points.
You may be rewarded gammon or backgammon depending upon the number of checkers of the opponent, when
you complete bearing off. In case of re-double it becomes double of the double. Double increases the
value of the stake twice and the re-double quadruple respectively. Now, when to issue a double? When
you are cock sure of yours being in an advantageous position, then only you issue a double. How to do
it? Just turn the doubling cube placed on the bar to announce a double. When a double is announced and
the opponent accepts then the value of the stake becomes double. Like 1 will become 2, 2 will become 4,
3 will become 6 and so on.
Remember that if a double is announced and the opponent refuses, the game terminates immediately with
the opponent conceding the game.
STRATEGIES FOR ADVANCED LEVEL
Advanced Level refers to a point from where you can start winning. The basic winning strategy depends
upon three factors
1) Running Game
2) Blocking Game and
3) Back Game.
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You need to use various permutations and combinations of these three techniques for your success.
Millard Hopper has revealed his championship secrets for moving, blocking and back games in his
popular book 'Win at Backgammon'.
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The strategy includes blocking the opponent from hitting your checkers and blocking the escape route of
the opponent. To block the opponent’s escape route, you are to block the 24th row, one of the most
strategically important rows of your home board. You must try to block your opponent’s checkers on your
home board only. Experienced players advise to block the rows in combinations like 6+1, 3+1, 4+2, 5+3,
and 6+5.
In the earlier level of strategies we have seen how to block the opponent from one particular point.
But the skill lies in deciding, when to hit and being hit. Experts advise only to hit when you feel
it’s advantageous. Never attempt unnecessary hitting. A generic solution is to hit the most advanced
checker of the opponent’s or the potential checker, which may be used to block you as per your
reading of the game. The experience players prefer hitting a checker in the opponent’s home board.
Don’t unnecessary panic of being hit. You may lure your opponent to hit your checkers while
exposing his other checkers for attack.
At this stage let’s establish how we can further restrain the moves of the opponent’s checkers.
Creating a Prime does this. If you can occupy six points in a row then it is called a prime. The
advantage of prime is that your opponent cannot move out from behind a prime. So, if you can set a
prime in your opponent’s home board, it will restrain the opponent’s movement to a great extent.
Experts advise you to start a prime either from your 5th point or from your bar point. But the caution
message for you is the attempt for formation of a prime may even lead to leave the blots, risking your
checkers for being hit. So, always keep balance and keep watching the progress of the game.
The most important factor is, if you lag; don’t be panic-stricken to leave shots. Instead, focus on
placing checkers as per your convenience.
Now after the preliminary knowledge of double and redouble at this stage lets delve into the issue.
First of all let’s say clearly that this double and redouble does not have any limit. Only exclusive
rights of the doubling cube swing between the two players as well as the value of the stake increases
following the arithmetic rules. The double and redouble actually make the game more attractive by
increasing its speed.
Now lets discuss one very relevant term over here, which is 'Beavers'. In the normal course of the
game, when a double is announced and the opponent accepts the double, then the first one looses the
exclusive right of the doubling cube. Now, if the first one does not want to loose the possession of
the doubling cube, he immediately announces the redouble. A beaver pushes the ball to the opponent’s
court for accepting or conceding a defeat of that game by refusal. But this rule is applied mostly in
money play, not in matches or tournaments.
At this point you must be aware of two distinct stages, Gammon and Backgammon. If one has completed to
bearing off all his 15 checkers, while the other has not been able to bear off even one of his 15
checkers, then the winner is rewarded gammon, which doubles the points. If the situation becomes like
one has been able to accomplish bearing off completely, while the other has got his checker or checkers
on the bar or in his outer board (essentially being the winner’s home board), the winner is rewarded
backgammon, which has got triple effect.
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